It is Jules birthday today. No time to give more than a quick hug as at 0700 we are leaving with Ezelle for Chiredzi. As hospital chairperson, Ezelle is representing the Chikombedzi Hospital at the monthly “meet and greet” being held at the Chiredzi Council offices. Margaret comes with us but she is not happy that we are traveling away from the farm and is uncomfortable and concerned for our safety all day.

We stop just after the ford in the river where in 2005 I saw a flock of flamingos. I search in anticipation but they are not there. We photograph Louis beneath the enormous baobab tree which I estimate is over 110 feet around the base. It is ancient. As we near Chiredzi we decide to take the back roads, so approach the town through the sugar cane farms which remind me so much of Proserpine. It reminds me also that Greg, who we usually visit on these trips, to pick up sugar for the children is no longer there. Greg, a member of the Triangle Lions Club, and long term management at the Triangle Sugar Mill, emailed about 6 months ago and told me that he and his family were moving to South Africa as it was no longer safe for his young daughter to walk to the shop alone. The town itself is suffering and the neatness of the company houses and their attractively kept gardens where the bougainvillea flourishes have suffered and are looking sad and neglected!
Our effort to create less attention along the back road backfires, as we run into Zanu PF trucks filled with men who stare at us with hatred. They give us the closed fist hand signal which signifies they support Mugabe. Usually these trips away from the farm are so much fun but this time our relaxed and warmly given. “Aussie” waves to the people we come across are not given, in case they are interpreted wrongly as the open handed MDC (Member for Democratic Change) greeting. Margaret explains we are able to give a non-political thumbs wave but the spontaneity is no longer there, very few smile at us anymore and we end up not responding to anyone which I found sad.
We pull up outside an engineering works in Chiredzi to pick up a part for a pump which Ezelle has ordered. Margaret is mortified and refuses to come in as the workshop is owned by Gerry Whitehead who is one of the main MDC activists in the area. Gerry had his own farm, the Marakanga Ranch destroyed and taken over in 2002. The climax tragically ended with a dramatic shooting spree resulting in 2 witnesses and a game scout being shot dead. Gerry is extremely agitated when we arrive. He has just received his 12th death threat and this time he says it is serious! He is organizing to get his wife Rose and grandchildren out of the country. Rose appears. Her skin is grey and she looks old before her time. We hug her but her fear is palpable!
Gerry likens the present position of being an MDC supporter in present day Zimbabwe as being close to being a Jew in Nazi Germany. He tells us about the Mayor of Bulawayo who had had his wife and child abducted on the previous day. They have heard that today the child has been returned in a traumatized state and they have found the mother dead. When we get home we are told that it was actually the Mayor of Harare’s’ wife who has been murdered. Rumors are every where and it is difficult to know exactly the truth!
At Ezelle’s meeting, someone has heard that she is campaigning for Simba Makoni, the leader of the Zanu PF group that has broken away from Mugabe and the hardliners. She bursts out laughing as she says the idea is ridiculous but the rumors still fly.
When we drop Ezelle at the Council for her meeting, we decide to visit Tore and Smithy Balance who are long term friends of Jules. Tore used to have a game lodge but that was many years ago. He is renowned as being one of the tireless and courageous “wild life warriors” who worked to save the black rhinoceros of Zimbabwe from extinction, due to relentless poaching. Until recently, his wife Smithy worked at a local private school teaching French but when it got to the point that her wages were no longer covering the cost of petrol to get there, she resigned.
The Balances now survive on handouts from their family and from the sale of the beautiful candle sticks and lamps Tore makes out of the magnificent Zimbabwean low veldt timbers that he sources from the bush. His company is called “Be Not Far” and each masterpiece has a tag which states that they have been crafted from deadwood destined to be burnt. It goes on to say, “The candle stick maker gives the wood new life as a bearer of light. As you look at these candlesticks reflect on the true Candlestick Maker. He chooses each of us who are also destined for the fire and delights in transforming us into the bearers of His light”
In 2006 I bought two, very heavy pieces made of Zebra wood which I successfully lug back to Australia. This year I buy two more, of lighter timber, at totally inflated prices I am told by Margaret. It is all about self esteem and I am happy to leave the desperately needed Rand. I hear Tore organizing to go back to pay their pharmacy bill with some of the money. They have spent the morning taking their faithful and long term helper, Judith to the GP to get treatment for pneumonia. She also has TB and end stage Aids. When we last saw her she was a robust woman in her 50’s, living in her little hut at the back of the main house. Now Tore and Smithy care for her in the spare room and because she is now so frail they feed her, wash her and help her to mobilise when needed.
Tore talks for a couple of hours about the “present” situation and what he feels the outcomes will be. He thinks the people are almost ready for change and are becoming increasingly resentful of the vote rigging and compulsory voting that has swept the country. He tells us also of the local Zanu PF pastor who is actually campaigning with clenched fist from the pulpit of a local church. We tell him that as we drove to his place we passed the Chiredzi Police Station where we see a hundred or so uniformed police, assembled and getting ready to cast their “compulsory” vote. Local militia stood around with guns to expedite the process. We were told they were voting early so that they would be free on election day to encourage and “assist” others to vote for the ruling party.
Tore says that the plight of the Zimbabwean people can be likened to the plight of the Israelites. As a Christian, as well as an MDC activist he feels its time to be counted! We say our farewells to Judith, hug the Balances and leave.
We have arranged to meet my friend Agrippa who arrives at the Council Offices on one of the bicycles supplied from the NT Police lost property. When I heard that he was still living and working in Chiredzi I was delighted and surprised as we were told that he may have “border jumped” into South Africa. He looked well and his skin was clear and when I commented on how well he looked he told me that his latest test for HIV done at the New Start Clinic” was still negative. He proudly gave me a photo of his wife Violet, and beautiful new baby but was remorseful that some of the things that we had given him had been sold to raise money. I wondered if I would have done the same if circumstances were reversed and thought that I might.
His surprise was that he now has a small shoe factory just out of town and is making a living, converting old rubber tyres into manyeteros which are the local form of footwear. He has big plans for the future and wants to expand his factory and also build a bakery when things improve! On special occasions he still presents his plays to the general public and his love of acting is still burning bright but he explains that this way he no longer has to rely on donations from school children or mentors like me. He has letters for me from the other members of the group, Charles and Tawanda. In them they apologise for being unable to visit me and explain they have been “detained at base camp due to the situation.” Ezelle states that 300-400 youths have been rounded up by the militia, against their will and have been threatened and intimidated to hand over their ID cards so that their votes can be manipulated. The officials are furious when they find that only 14 of the young men have ID cards as the majority is unaware when they were born and need a record of birth to obtain their official “identity” The majority can’t vote anyway.

My meeting with Agrippa goes well although I am extremely conscious of the fact that we are being watched. It runs through my mind that he may also be spying for the other side so I am careful and choose my words carefully when I speak. I want to help financially but after a round table conference with Margaret and the rest of the group prior to seeing him, we decide that we can help him more by placing orders for shoes for the children. We work out that R200 (about $28.50) will be enough to buy 30 pair of shoes which still leaves Agrippa with a healthy profit. I give him R100 and tell him that when the order is ready he will get the rest from Margaret. He is delighted and thanks me and I tell him I am proud of him.
Before heading home we have one more job to do and we head for the local council building authority to get the plans stamped by the government authority responsible for the sewing factory, souvenir shop and café which is to be built on “future” prime real estate in Chikombedzi, on the corner of the road leading to the Gonarezhou National Park. The cost is 3.2 trillion dollars, on that day approximately $A700, but Margaret and Ezelle are ecstatic as they have been working for this for some time. The plans are stamped without further changes which is also a bonus. Now all we need is the money to build which comes to approximately A$210,000. A little thing like money has never stopped Ezelle and her dreams and we are already planning ways to raise it!
As we drive out of town we see Mrs. Chamuka waiting for the bus service to take her back home to the Makambe School where she is the head mistress. She is also our Batsiranai Sewing Project teacher and an old friend and we immediately stop and find her a seat in the vehicle. As she is older than Margaret, Margaret gives up her seat and gets in the back of the vehicle. On the way home she tells us that her school had been visited by Zanu PF thugs and they had been threatened with beatings if they didn’t vote for the ruling party. She stated that all the teachers “ stuck together like kangaroos” and we all laugh at her expression but hear later that it was only because the Catholic bishop from Bulawayo intervened that the threats and intimidation stopped and they were allowed to continue teaching.
Mrs. Chamuga earns Z$160billion net per month and on present day rates where a loaf of bread costs Z$2.5 billion she says that it has long passed where her salary actually has any meaning. She now teaches to ensure that the 140 secondary children in her care do not grow up illiterate. Her own two boys are doing well and one is doing his final year medicine at University.

We drive home and I am caught up in the wonder of yet another spellbinding African sunset. It is impossible not to click away to catch the perfect image! We make good time and Christo is relieved that we are home early and he doesn’t have to worry. Martie who lives with the Schimpers explains that Christo is like a broody hen and can’t relax until all the chicks are home to nest but we know his nerves aren’t good and are glad we don’t have to distress him on this occasion.
Finally we can relax and now can celebrate Julie’s birthday with the chocolate cake that Ezelle made especially for her the night before and the champagne and Amarula which we have brought up from South Africa for a special celebration such as this. It would be so easy to let the whole day get to you but they have taught me that life must go on and we drink up!
